CHAPTER 14

The _Jane Guy_ was a fine-looking topsail schooner of a hundred

and eighty tons burden. She was unusually sharp in the bows, and

on a wind, in moderate weather, the fastest sailer I have ever

seen. Her qualities, however, as a rough sea-boat, were not so

good, and her draught of water was by far too great for the trade

to which she was destined. For this peculiar service, a larger

vessel, and one of a light proportionate draught, is

desirable—say a vessel of from three hundred to three hundred and

fifty tons. She should be bark-rigged, and in other respects of a

different construction from the usual South Sea ships. It is

absolutely necessary that she should be well armed. She should

have, say ten or twelve twelve-pound carronades, and two or three

long twelves, with brass blunderbusses, and water-tight

arm-chests for each top. Her anchors and cables should be of far

greater strength than is required for any other species of trade,

and, above all, her crew should be numerous and efficient—not

less, for such a vessel as I have described, than fifty or sixty

able-bodied men. The Jane Guy had a crew of thirty-five, all able

seamen, besides the captain and mate, but she was not altogether

as well armed or otherwise equipped, as a navigator acquainted

with the difficulties and dangers of the trade could have

desired.

Captain Guy was a gentleman of great urbanity of manner, and of

considerable experience in the southern traffic, to which he had

devoted a great portion of his life. He was deficient, however,

in energy, and, consequently, in that spirit of enterprise which

is here so absolutely requisite. He was part owner of the vessel

in which he sailed, and was invested with discretionary powers to

cruise in the South Seas for any cargo which might come most

readily to hand. He had on board, as usual in such voyages,

beads, looking-glasses, tinder-works, axes, hatchets, saws,

adzes, planes, chisels, gouges, gimlets, files, spokeshaves,

rasps, hammers, nails, knives, scissors, razors, needles, thread,

crockery-ware, calico, trinkets, and other similar articles.

The schooner sailed from Liverpool on the tenth of July, crossed

the Tropic of Cancer on the twenty-fifth, in longitude twenty

degrees west, and reached Sal, one of the Cape Verd islands, on

the twenty-ninth, where she took in salt and other necessaries

for the voyage. On the third of August, she left the Cape Verds

and steered southwest, stretching over toward the coast of

Brazil, so as to cross the equator between the meridians of

twenty-eight and thirty degrees west longitude. This is the

course usually taken by vessels bound from Europe to the Cape of

Good Hope, or by that route to the East Indies. By proceeding

thus they avoid the calms and strong contrary currents which

continually prevail on the coast of Guinea, while, in the end, it

is found to be the shortest track, as westerly winds are never

wanting afterward by which to reach the Cape. It was Captain

Guy’s intention to make his first stoppage at Kerguelen’s Land—I

hardly know for what reason. On the day we were picked up the

schooner was off Cape St. Roque, in longitude thirty-one degrees

west; so that, when found, we had drifted probably, from north to

south, _not less than five-and-twenty degrees!_

On board the Jane Guy we were treated with all the kindness our

distressed situation demanded. In about a fortnight, during which

time we continued steering to the southeast, with gentle breezes

and fine weather, both Peters and myself recovered entirely from

the effects of our late privation and dreadful sufferings, and we

began to remember what had passed rather as a frightful dream

from which we had been happily awakened, than as events which had

taken place in sober and naked reality. I have since found that

this species of partial oblivion is usually brought about by

sudden transition, whether from joy to sorrow or from sorrow to

joy—the degree of forgetfulness being proportioned to the degree

of difference in the exchange. Thus, in my own case, I now feel

it impossible to realize the full extent of the misery which I

endured during the days spent upon the hulk. The incidents are

remembered, but not the feelings which the incidents elicited at

the time of their occurrence. I only know, that when they did

occur, I then thought human nature could sustain nothing more of

agony.

We continued our voyage for some weeks without any incidents of

greater moment than the occasional meeting with whaling-ships,

and more frequently with the black or right whale, so called in

contradistinction to the spermaceti. These, however, were chiefly

found south of the twenty-fifth parallel. On the sixteenth of

September, being in the vicinity of the Cape of Good Hope, the

schooner encountered her first gale of any violence since leaving

Liverpool. In this neighborhood, but more frequently to the south

and east of the promontory (we were to the westward), navigators

have often to contend with storms from the northward, which rage

with great fury. They always bring with them a heavy sea, and one

of their most dangerous features is the instantaneous chopping

round of the wind, an occurrence almost certain to take place

during the greatest force of the gale. A perfect hurricane will

be blowing at one moment from the northward or northeast, and in

the next not a breath of wind will be felt in that direction,

while from the southwest it will come out all at once with a

violence almost inconceivable. A bright spot to the southward is

the sure forerunner of the change, and vessels are thus enabled

to take the proper precautions.

It was about six in the morning when the blow came on with a

white squall, and, as usual, from the northward. By eight it had

increased very much, and brought down upon us one of the most

tremendous seas I had then ever beheld. Every thing had been made

as snug as possible, but the schooner laboured excessively, and

gave evidence of her bad qualities as a seaboat, pitching her

forecastle under at every plunge and with the greatest difficulty

struggling up from one wave before she was buried in another.

Just before sunset the bright spot for which we had been on the

look-out made its appearance in the southwest, and in an hour

afterward we perceived the little headsail we carried flapping

listlessly against the mast. In two minutes more, in spite of

every preparation, we were hurled on our beam-ends, as if by

magic, and a perfect wilderness of foam made a clear breach over

us as we lay. The blow from the southwest, however, luckily

proved to be nothing more than a squall, and we had the good

fortune to right the vessel without the loss of a spar. A heavy

cross sea gave us great trouble for a few hours after this, but

toward morning we found ourselves in nearly as good condition as

before the gale. Captain Guy considered that he had made an

escape little less than miraculous.

On the thirteenth of October we came in sight of Prince Edward’s

Island, in latitude 46 degrees 53’ S., longitude 37 degrees 46’

E. Two days afterward we found ourselves near Possession Island,

and presently passed the islands of Crozet, in latitude 42

degrees 59’ S., longitude 48 degrees E. On the eighteenth we made

Kerguelen’s or Desolation Island, in the Southern Indian Ocean,

and came to anchor in Christmas Harbour, having four fathoms of

water.

This island, or rather group of islands, bears southeast from the

Cape of Good Hope, and is distant therefrom nearly eight hundred

leagues. It was first discovered in 1772, by the Baron de

Kergulen, or Kerguelen, a Frenchman, who, thinking the land to

form a portion of an extensive southern continent carried home

information to that effect, which produced much excitement at the

time. The government, taking the matter up, sent the baron back

in the following year for the purpose of giving his new discovery

a critical examination, when the mistake was discovered. In 1777,

Captain Cook fell in with the same group, and gave to the

principal one the name of Desolation Island, a title which it

certainly well deserves. Upon approaching the land, however, the

navigator might be induced to suppose otherwise, as the sides of

most of the hills, from September to March, are clothed with very

brilliant verdure. This deceitful appearance is caused by a small

plant resembling saxifrage, which is abundant, growing in large

patches on a species of crumbling moss. Besides this plant there

is scarcely a sign of vegetation on the island, if we except some

coarse rank grass near the harbor, some lichen, and a shrub which

bears resemblance to a cabbage shooting into seed, and which has

a bitter and acrid taste.

The face of the country is hilly, although none of the hills can

be called lofty. Their tops are perpetually covered with snow.

There are several harbors, of which Christmas Harbour is the most

convenient. It is the first to be met with on the northeast side

of the island after passing Cape Francois, which forms the

northern shore, and, by its peculiar shape, serves to distinguish

the harbour. Its projecting point terminates in a high rock,

through which is a large hole, forming a natural arch. The

entrance is in latitude 48 degrees 40’ S., longitude 69 degrees

6’ E. Passing in here, good anchorage may be found under the

shelter of several small islands, which form a sufficient

protection from all easterly winds. Proceeding on eastwardly from

this anchorage you come to Wasp Bay, at the head of the harbour.

This is a small basin, completely landlocked, into which you can

go with four fathoms, and find anchorage in from ten to three,

hard clay bottom. A ship might lie here with her best bower ahead

all the year round without risk. To the westward, at the head of

Wasp Bay, is a small stream of excellent water, easily procured.

Some seal of the fur and hair species are still to be found on

Kerguelen’s Island, and sea elephants abound. The feathered

tribes are discovered in great numbers. Penguins are very plenty,

and of these there are four different kinds. The royal penguin,

so called from its size and beautiful plumage, is the largest.

The upper part of the body is usually gray, sometimes of a lilac

tint; the under portion of the purest white imaginable. The head

is of a glossy and most brilliant black, the feet also. The chief

beauty of plumage, however, consists in two broad stripes of a

gold color, which pass along from the head to the breast. The

bill is long, and either pink or bright scarlet. These birds walk

erect; with a stately carriage. They carry their heads high with

their wings drooping like two arms, and, as their tails project

from their body in a line with the legs, the resemblance to a

human figure is very striking, and would be apt to deceive the

spectator at a casual glance or in the gloom of the evening. The

royal penguins which we met with on Kerguelen’s Land were rather

larger than a goose. The other kinds are the macaroni, the

jackass, and the rookery penguin. These are much smaller, less

beautiful in plumage, and different in other respects.

Besides the penguin many other birds are here to be found, among

which may be mentioned sea-hens, blue peterels, teal, ducks, Port

Egmont hens, shags, Cape pigeons, the nelly, sea swallows, terns,

sea gulls, Mother Carey’s chickens, Mother Carey’s geese, or the

great peterel, and, lastly, the albatross.

The great peterel is as large as the common albatross, and is

carnivorous. It is frequently called the break-bones, or osprey

peterel. They are not at all shy, and, when properly cooked, are

palatable food. In flying they sometimes sail very close to the

surface of the water, with the wings expanded, without appearing

to move them in the least degree, or make any exertion with them

whatever.

The albatross is one of the largest and fiercest of the South Sea

birds. It is of the gull species, and takes its prey on the wing,

never coming on land except for the purpose of breeding. Between

this bird and the penguin the most singular friendship exists.

Their nests are constructed with great uniformity upon a plan

concerted between the two species—that of the albatross being

placed in the centre of a little square formed by the nests of

four penguins. Navigators have agreed in calling an assemblage of

such encampments a rookery. These rookeries have been often

described, but as my readers may not all have seen these

descriptions, and as I shall have occasion hereafter to speak of

the penguin and albatross, it will not be amiss to say something

here of their mode of building and living.

When the season for incubation arrives, the birds assemble in

vast numbers, and for some days appear to be deliberating upon

the proper course to be pursued. At length they proceed to

action. A level piece of ground is selected, of suitable extent,

usually comprising three or four acres, and situated as near the

sea as possible, being still beyond its reach. The spot is chosen

with reference to its evenness of surface, and that is preferred

which is the least encumbered with stones. This matter being

arranged, the birds proceed, with one accord, and actuated

apparently by one mind, to trace out, with mathematical accuracy,

either a square or other parallelogram, as may best suit the

nature of the ground, and of just sufficient size to accommodate

easily all the birds assembled, and no more—in this particular

seeming determined upon preventing the access of future

stragglers who have not participated in the labor of the

encampment. One side of the place thus marked out runs parallel

with the water’s edge, and is left open for ingress or egress.

Having defined the limits of the rookery, the colony now begin to

clear it of every species of rubbish, picking up stone by stone,

and carrying them outside of the lines, and close by them, so as

to form a wall on the three inland sides. Just within this wall a

perfectly level and smooth walk is formed, from six to eight feet

wide, and extending around the encampment—thus serving the

purpose of a general promenade.

The next process is to partition out the whole area into small

squares exactly equal in size. This is done by forming narrow

paths, very smooth, and crossing each other at right angles

throughout the entire extent of the rookery. At each intersection

of these paths the nest of an albatross is constructed, and a

penguin’s nest in the centre of each square—thus every penguin is

surrounded by four albatrosses, and each albatross by a like

number of penguins. The penguin’s nest consists of a hole in the

earth, very shallow, being only just of sufficient depth to keep

her single egg from rolling. The albatross is somewhat less

simple in her arrangements, erecting a hillock about a foot high

and two in diameter. This is made of earth, seaweed, and shells.

On its summit she builds her nest.

The birds take especial care never to leave their nests

unoccupied for an instant during the period of incubation, or,

indeed, until the young progeny are sufficiently strong to take

care of themselves. While the male is absent at sea in search of

food, the female remains on duty, and it is only upon the return

of her partner that she ventures abroad. The eggs are never left

uncovered at all—while one bird leaves the nest the other

nestling in by its side. This precaution is rendered necessary by

the thieving propensities prevalent in the rookery, the

inhabitants making no scruple to purloin each other’s eggs at

every good opportunity.

Although there are some rookeries in which the penguin and

albatross are the sole population, yet in most of them a variety

of oceanic birds are to be met with, enjoying all the privileges

of citizenship, and scattering their nests here and there,

wherever they can find room, never interfering, however, with the

stations of the larger species. The appearance of such

encampments, when seen from a distance, is exceedingly singular.

The whole atmosphere just above the settlement is darkened with

the immense number of the albatross (mingled with the smaller

tribes) which are continually hovering over it, either going to

the ocean or returning home. At the same time a crowd of penguins

are to be observed, some passing to and fro in the narrow alleys,

and some marching with the military strut so peculiar to them,

around the general promenade ground which encircles the rookery.

In short, survey it as we will, nothing can be more astonishing

than the spirit of reflection evinced by these feathered beings,

and nothing surely can be better calculated to elicit reflection

in every well-regulated human intellect.

On the morning after our arrival in Christmas Harbour the chief

mate, Mr. Patterson, took the boats, and (although it was

somewhat early in the season) went in search of seal, leaving the

captain and a young relation of his on a point of barren land to

the westward, they having some business, whose nature I could not

ascertain, to transact in the interior of the island. Captain Guy

took with him a bottle, in which was a sealed letter, and made

his way from the point on which he was set on shore toward one of

the highest peaks in the place. It is probable that his design

was to leave the letter on that height for some vessel which he

expected to come after him. As soon as we lost sight of him we

proceeded (Peters and myself being in the mate’s boat) on our

cruise around the coast, looking for seal. In this business we

were occupied about three weeks, examining with great care every

nook and corner, not only of Kerguelen’s Land, but of the several

small islands in the vicinity. Our labours, however, were not

crowned with any important success. We saw a great many fur seal,

but they were exceedingly shy, and with the greatest exertions,

we could only procure three hundred and fifty skins in all. Sea

elephants were abundant, especially on the western coast of the

mainland, but of these we killed only twenty, and this with great

difficulty. On the smaller islands we discovered a good many of

the hair seal, but did not molest them. We returned to the

schooner on the eleventh, where we found Captain Guy and his

nephew, who gave a very bad account of the interior, representing

it as one of the most dreary and utterly barren countries in the

world. They had remained two nights on the island, owing to some

misunderstanding, on the part of the second mate, in regard to

the sending a jollyboat from the schooner to take them off.