CHAPTER XI

THE CRUISE OF H.M.S. _GALATEA_ (_Continued_)

V. WITH THE DUKE IN JAPAN

The _Galatea_ arrived at Yokohama on the 29th August 1869. The Duke

with his suite, including myself, went up to Tokio (the old Yedo) and

took up his quarters at Hama-go-ten, which had been the summer

residence of the Tycoon. The estate marched with a piece of water

opening into the bay; here were many summer-houses; and a commodious

building equipped for the Duke by the orders of the Mikado. The name

was changed to Yen-Rio-Kan, signifying a place set apart for

distinguished foreigners.

We were entertained with the most delicate and sumptuous hospitality by

this charming people whose courtesy greatly impressed us. Conjurers,

acrobats and wrestlers performed for the entertainment of his Royal

Highness; whenever we went abroad, thirty two-sworded Yaconins attended

us.

The Duke went in state to visit the Mikado in his palace. All along

the route the upper windows of the houses were sealed with paper, so

that none should look down upon he royal visitor; a precaution only

taken in the case of the highest nobility. The Duke, attended only by

Sir Harry Parkes, Admiral Sir Harry Keppel and Mr. Mitford (afterwards

Lord Reedsdale and author of the delightful _Tales of Old Japan_), had

a private audience of the Emperor, who was presented by his Royal

Highness with a diamond snuff-box. {101} Six of us were afterwards

admitted to the presence. I remember the dim figure of a young man

seated behind a screen at the end of the audience chamber. Many years

afterwards, when I again visited Japan, the Mikado, who remembered my

former visit, graciously invited me to lunch, and entertained me with

the royal sport of catching ducks in a hand-net. The ducks are

preserved in the royal gardens, which are charmingly diversified with

lawns and running water, and flowering shrubs. As you enter, the ducks

rise suddenly, and the sport was to net them as they rose.

As we remained no longer than a week in Tokio, my recollections are

few. I was tattooed by the native artificers, to the astonishment of

the Japanese officials and nobles; for in Japan none save the common

people is tattooed. The Japanese artist designs in white upon dark,

working upon the skin round the chief ornament in his scheme; whereas

the English tattooer designs dark upon white, using the natural skin as

a background. Both methods are beautifully illustrated upon my person.

I witnessed the decapitation of six criminals. The victims stand in a

row, their hands bound behind them: each in turn is tapped on the

shoulder, when he kneels down, and bows his head. With a single

half-arm stroke, the executioner slices through the neck. I also saw a

crucifixion. The man's hands and feet are extended and tied to

cross-bars, so that he makes a figure like an hour-glass. Then he is

transfixed with a spear.

On the 8th September, the Duke returned to Yokohama by sea, taking with

him as his guest in the _Galatea_, Hiobukio-no-Miya, Prince of the

Blood, Minister of War, and other high dignitaries, who attended a ball

given at the British Legation. On the 16th, the _Galatea_ sailed for

China.

{102}