CHAPTER XII

THE CRUISE OF H.M.S. _GALATEA_ (_Continued_)

VI. THE HOMEWARD VOYAGE

From Japan we proceeded to China, touching at Chefoo, Shanghai and

Hongkong. Nothing could exceed the princely hospitality of the great

British mercantile firms in China. It was then that I learned, what

subsequent experience confirmed, the remarkable integrity of the

business dealings of the Chinese. The head of the Chinese Bank told me

that he never had a bad account with a Chinaman. The Chinese keeps

agreements to the letter, quite irrespective of documentary contracts.

From China we proceeded to Manila, then a Spanish possession. My

principal recollection of Manila is the extraordinary prevalence of

cock-fighting. There was a cockpit in every street; and the sole

occupation of the inhabitants appeared to consist of betting upon their

birds. One used constantly to meet men walking in the street with

their birds under their arms. The cocks were armed with steel spurs

shaped like a scythe, and sharpened to a razor edge. I have seen a

bird spring up and slice the head of its adversary clean off, and I

have seen the chest of a bird slashed open, almost cutting its body in

two. The use of the artificial spurs affected the betting, making the

fight very much more uncertain and therefore more exciting. For,

whereas if a cock uses its natural spurs, the best bird probably wins,

an inferior bird armed artificially might gain the victory.

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From Manila we proceeded to Calcutta. Upon landing, I met my brother,

Lord Marcus, and with him I rode up, together with the staff, to

Government House. It is a singular coincidence that when I landed at

Calcutta, six years afterwards, on the corresponding date, when I was a

member of the staff of the Prince of Wales (afterwards King Edward

VII), I met my other brother, Lord William, and rode up with him to

Government House.

The _Galatea_ lay alongside the wharf. It was necessary to take the

most stringent precautions against cholera. Only one boy in the ship's

company was taken ill during our stay. He died inside an hour. But in

the merchant ships lying in the port there were many deaths. Men were

employed in working parties to push off with long bamboos the corpses

that were continually floating down from the Hooghli, lest they should

foul the moorings. The bodies used to come floating down with the

birds perching and feeding upon them.

We went up country, and enjoyed a great deal of excellent sport. We

went out pig-sticking, which is the finest sport in the world; we went

out tiger-shooting upon elephants; and riding upon elephants, we shot

partridges--a form of sport by no means easy. I remember an irascible

old colonel of artillery, who became very hot, and who missed a good

many partridges, saying indignantly to the Duke:

"This is all d----d rot. I could shoot more partridges on Woolwich

Common."

It was the same peppery soldier who, when one of the members of the

staff had fallen ill, went with me upon a visitation to the sick. We

found the invalid in a state of extreme agitation, and surrounded with

books of a religious nature.

"I think--I hope--" he kept saying, "that I shall be forgiven. I think

I shall--I hope so."

"What's he saying? What's he saying?" cried the colonel, who, as often

happens to people in hot weather, had become rather deaf.

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"He thinks he's dying," I shouted.

Whereupon the colonel, turning angrily to the invalid, shouted,

"You d----d fool, you have only over-eaten yourself!"

The sick man was so infuriated that he hurled his books of religion at

the colonel, and sprang out of bed. Next day he was quite well.

Another member of the staff was mounted one day upon a red horse (they

paint their horses in India), a wild, half-broken Arab steed, which was

giving its rider a deal of trouble. I advised my friend to dismount,

and left him. Presently I rode back to find him on foot and alone. I

asked him, where was his horse?

"Gone," said he. "Whenever that d----d horse saw a mosquito, it sat

down and cried like a child. So I kicked it in the belly and it ran

away into the jungle."

We visited Trincomalee, where the elephants built the dockyard. They

carried the timber and they carried the stones, and they lifted the

stones into position and adjusted them with their feet. The remarkable

thing about the climate of Ceylon is its intermittent showers of

tropical violence, followed by bursts of sunshine. In the result, you

actually see the foliage growing. I remember the extraordinary beauty

of the native decorations, which are fabricated of palms and leaves and

flowers.

From Colombo we went to Mauritius, arriving there in May, 1870. Here I

climbed the famous mountain called Pieter Botte, or, more correctly,

Pieter Both.

[Illustration: PIETER BOTH MOUNTAIN, MAURITIUS]

The mountain is so named after Pieter Both, Governor-General of the

Dutch East Indies in the early part of the seventeenth century, and the

founder of Dutch power in that region. On his homeward voyage he was

wrecked in the bay overlooked by the mountain, which thereafter bore

his name. Previous ascents are recorded in the archives at Mauritius,

from which it appears that mine was the fourteenth. Admiral Sir

William Kennedy ascended Pieter Botte in 1861; he gives an account of

his climb in his {105} interesting book, _Hurrah for the Life of a

Sailor_ (London, Nash). Kennedy started with a party of fourteen

persons, of whom five reached the summit.

At nine o'clock in the morning I started, together with the captain of

the maintop, Edward Hele. We took with us ropes, a rope ladder,

cod-line, and a small lead. These were all our appliances. We drove

to the foot of the mountain and began the ascent at 11.5 a.m. Now the

mountain of Pieter Botte is shaped like a church with a steep roof,

from one end of which rises a spire. This pinnacle of rock is crowned

with a huge, rounded, overhanging boulder.

Part of the ridge was so sharp that we were forced to sit on it and to

proceed astride. Then we came to the pinnacle. The ascent was so

sharp and difficult that we were obliged to take off both shoes and

socks. At one point, I lost my balance, and was only saved from

falling backwards by Hele's ready hand. Climbing the pinnacle was far

more difficult than scaling the overhanging boulder at the top. At the

top of the pinnacle there was just room to stand beneath the

overhanging boulder. The only possible method of climbing the boulder

was to get the rope ladder over the top of it. Accordingly, one end of

the rope ladder was attached to the lead-line. In order to swing the

lead, one of us was roped with a round turn round his body, while the

other, lying on his back, held the rope while the leadsman, leaning

right backwards and outwards over the sheer precipice of some 3000 feet

fall, swung the lead. We took it in turns to swing the lead; as we

leaned outwards, the rock spread over our heads like an umbrella; and

it was an hour and a half before we succeeded in casting it over the

boulder. Then we hauled the rope ladder over and made all fast. It

was too short, and the last few yards we hauled ourselves up hand over

hand. So we climbed to the top, which is a platform of about 20 feet

square. It was then 1.59 p.m. We took off our shirts, and waved them

to the warships lying far below in the bay, from which we were {106}

plainly to be distinguished with the aid of a telescope. The ships

each saluted us with one gun. We planted on the summit a flag upon

whose staff were carved our names and the names of our ships. When we

returned, my brother officers gave us a dinner to celebrate the event.

Hele was eventually promoted to warrant officer. When Hele died, I was

able to help his son to gain his education, and he did very well. It

was in Mauritius that we went out shooting with the native population;

one of the most dangerous amusements in which I have ever taken part,

for the bullets used to whistle in the air all round us.

From Mauritius we proceeded to Cape Town. Here, on the 12th July,

1870, the Duke inaugurated the new harbour, breakwater and docks. I

kept a team on shore, and used to drive up from Simon's Bay to Cape

Town. Every now and then we stuck in a quicksand. On one such

occasion I had a brother officer with me; and as he was afflicted with

a cold, I took him on my back to save him from wet feet. But I fell

with him, and we were both soaked to the skin. Upon another day, when

we stuck, I put two of my messmates on the leaders, and they pulled the

coach right through. If you want horses to pull a weight out of a

tight place, put weight on their backs.

The Colonial Secretary at Cape Town was Mr. Southey. He was a most

delightful and sagacious person, and became a great friend of mine. He

prophesied in a most wonderful way what would be the future of South

Africa.

"If," said he, "we could only get a big man, a master-mind, to come out

here, all that I foresee would come true."

The right man presently arrived in the person of the late Cecil John

Rhodes, and my friend's prophecies have been most singularly fulfilled.

While at the Cape, we went up country, shooting. Both Dutch and

English families were most kind and hospitable to us. Upon one of

these expeditions, a member of the staff went out by himself very early

in the morning to shoot. Observing some ostriches in the distance, he

stalked {107} them with immense labour and patience, and presently

succeeded in shooting a couple of birds. When he returned, he

complained that it had been very difficult to get his sights on, owing

to some high rails which were between himself and the birds. It had

not occurred to him that he had been stalking tame ostriches on a farm.

I once rode from Cape Town to Simon's Town and back, between lunch and

dinner, galloping the whole distance, with four changes of horses. The

distance between the two places is about 35 miles as the crow flies.

My errand was merely to postpone the arrival of a visitor who was to

come to the _Galatea_.

The ride, however, showed that I was in good condition. I have always

tried to keep myself fit, holding that condition of body regulates

condition of mind. Cheery people deserve small credit, because their

frame of mind is due to their being right inside. Quarrelsome people

are wrong inside.

On our way to England we touched at the Falkland Islands where I

visited a relative of mine who kept a ranch. He used bull-dogs to

catch his bulls, when he required them for branding. The dogs seized

the bulls by the nose and held them while they were lassoed by the

guachos.

When we touched at Montevideo, I remember conversing with various

persons, who foretold the immense profit which must eventually accrue

if the land there was purchased at that time. Their opinion has since

proved true. But I had no money to invest; so that the opportunity was

only another instance of what might have been.

The _Galatea_ was badly strained in a gale of wind, her deck seams

opening so that the water streamed into the cabins beneath. One

lieutenant used to say to another:

"How did you sleep last night? It was pretty rough.

"Woke at one o'clock and saw them reefing tops'ls"--meaning that, lying

in bed, he could see clear through the seams.

I used my sail-making ability to make a canvas awning {108} for my bed;

fitted it with a ridge rope, laced it down and hauled it taut, led a

trough from it to take the water into the slop-pail; and slept dry

under it.

It was during the visit of the _Galatea_ to Australia that I was made a

Freemason; and I have always regretted that I have never been able to

devote as much time to Masonry as I should have liked to give to the

Craft. The Australian Lodge into which I was admitted was under the

impression that I was the most timid neophyte who had ever joined it.

When the ceremony was ended, one of the members of the Lodge said to me:

"You are safely through it. But do you know that of all the men we

have had through this lodge, we never had one so paralysed with fear as

yourself. You were shivering like an aspen!"

The fact was that during the initiatory ceremonies something

unaccountably struck me as extraordinarily funny. The effort to subdue

my emotions caused me to tremble all over.

One of our diversions in the _Galatea_ when she was at sea, was to

listen to the conversations which used repeatedly to occur between a

certain worthy member of the Duke's suite and the old quartermaster.

The member of the staff in question had endeared himself to us by his

high seriousness. He dealt with the most trifling incidents of life in

a spirit of preternatural and wholly sincere solemnity. Supposing that

you told him that a common friend had fallen off his horse and bruised

his leg, our member of staff would instantly ship a countenance of

intense concern.

"Bruised his leg? You don't say so! Good God! Has he indeed?"

"Yes--he's bruised his leg!"

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"Has he now? Well, well. Bruised his leg! I hope it's not serious.

I do hope it's not serious. Tut-tut! Bruised his leg, you say?"

"It's not serious. But he's bruised his leg."

"I'm delighted to hear it's not serious. But--bruised his leg. I am

really distressed."

And so on.

Among other matters, our friend took his family very seriously. One of

his ancestors had been an admiral; and it was this distinguished

officer who made the link between the member of staff and the

quartermaster. The member of staff used to stroll on the quarterdeck

in the evening, and fall into talk with the seamen.

"Well, Jones. Good evening, Jones. I suppose, now, you've heard of my

uncle, the admiral?"

"Heard of 'im, sir? I should think I 'ad heard of 'im. Ah, he was a

_man_, he was. He could handle a ship, he could--ah, and handle the

men, too!"

"Why, where did you serve with him, Jones?"

"Where, sir? Where not? All over the world, sir. Ah, he was a man!"

"I'm delighted to meet anyone who knew a member of my family so well,

Jones--delighted, I assure you."

"Knew 'im? Why, sir, to know 'im was to admire 'im, as the saying is.

Many a time I've seen the men turn out _for_ to admire 'im, sir.

"Have you indeed, Jones--have you indeed! Dear me. Most interesting,

I am sure. I daresay a glass of grog would not come amiss to you,

Jones?"

"Wery kind of you, I'm sure, sir. It 'ud be a pleasure to drink your

health, and the admiral's too, sir. Ah, he was a man!"

Mr Jones, afterwards, forward on the lower deck, to envious friends:

"Pretty sweet conversation that, mates. I wonder 'oo the b----y h--l

'is uncle might 'a been!"

There was another member of the suite who surely deserves record--the

elephant. He was really a member of the ship's company, for he could

do, and did, the work of twenty men. He joined the ship in India, when

he was quite small, and he grew enormously on board. He lived in {110}

a house built aft, and fed upon branches of trees and bran and biscuits

and anything he could get. I trained him myself. I taught him to obey

the words of command, and he would do anything for me. He would hoist

me upon his shoulders with a fore foot, or upon his back with a hind

foot. In the dinner hour, when most of the men were below, he used to

take his share in working the ship. We slung the rope in a bowline

round his neck, and he would clew up the mainsail by walking on till he

was told to stop. He was never seasick. He used to balance himself,

swaying to and fro as the ship rolled. One night when the midshipmen

and I, having supper on deck aft, were called forward to trim sails,

the elephant finished the meal for us. He ate everything on the table,

put his foot on the plates and smashed them, and squashed the big

coffee-tin quite flat. Then he looked at us like a naughty child.

I was the only person who could persuade him to leave the ship or to

come on board again when he had been ashore. When we reached home, he

was put in a railway truck and directed to the Zoological Gardens. His

keeper, a marine artilleryman, went with him in the truck. Elephants

have a habit of rolling on their feet and squirming their vast bulk.

When the marine was trying to pass the elephant, the great beast

unconsciously pinned his keeper against the side of the truck, and

against a projecting bolt, which broke the man's rib, forcing it into

his heart. He was taken out dead.

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